How the economy and a new consumer base has boosted wine sales in Canada

The influence of business and consumers on wine trends

By Darla Murray

Wine is experiencing a resurgence in this country, with new breeds of consumers and wine producers introducing modern trends to a once classic culture. The fermented indulgence is no longer restricted to special celebrations or elite clubs. Recent statistics show that wine consumption is up markedly — 40.4 million cases were consumed in Canada in 2009, up 22.5 per cent from 2005 — and post-recession winemakers and retailers couldn’t be happier. Those who were once inclined to buy a bottle based solely on a retailer’s opinion are now coming to a store equipped with knowledge and curiosity.

“When our economy crashed it really started the trend for cheap and cheerful wine,” says Jennifer Huether, who earlier this year became the third, and only female, Canadian to be appointed the prestigious title of Master Sommelier. The change in the economy accounted for the surge in sales of South American wines, which offer great value at less than $25, as well as the shift away from single blends and back towards combination blends.

This is a woman who knows her wines. She graduated top of her class at the International Sommelier Guild in 2000, earned a diploma of wine and spirits from IWEG in 2003 and attended the Advanced Sommelier Program from the Court of Master Sommelier.

According to Huether, our taste as a society has shifted over the past couple of decades. Our child-like instinct to instantly be attracted to sweet, uncomplicated flavours has evolved and consumers are now more interested in experiencing other dimensions of wine. “In North America, we started off with the sweeter wines, such as white Zinfandels,” she says. “Then the trend was to move towards rich, heavy, highalcohol red wines from California. Now you see the collective palate is moving much more towards lighter, crisper, more balanced alcohol-style wines and more food-friendly wines.” As part of this educational journey, consumers are realizing that a rosé for example, does not necessarily equate to sweetness. In fact, the most popular rosés in France are typically dry and pair nicely with a variety of dishes, she says.

Rosé itself, the once unpopular — and to some unpalatable — wine is having its turn in the spotlight. Rosé is being touted as one of the year’s most soughtafter wines and consumption in Canada is projected to soar from more than a million cases sold in 2010 to an estimated two million cases by 2014. This shift isn’t just the result of a massive marketing strategy to unite red and white wine lovers. Like most wine trends, it is the combination of economics, education and equal parts master sommeliers and pop culture.

“Pop culture has definitely contributed to the increase in wine consumption,” says Huether. “Wine has traditionally been promoted only within the wine world and now you see it leaking into the mainstream… When you see rappers drinking champagne in their musicm videos or a TV show where there is wine in the background, whether subtle or not so subtle, it sends out a message that it is being accepted into our very conservative, pop-drinking culture. You find wine collectors in every walk of life — musicians, athletes, doctors, housewives — it’s really neat, it’s seeping over.”

Both consumers and professionals also now look to technology to further educate themselves, a trend made possible by the ubiquity of online access. “Technology is changing the face of the wine business entirely,” says Huether. It provides a way for consumers to keep track of their favourite wines and give them instant access to online reviews. From the business end, it offers wine makers and retailers a variety of avenues to market wines with Twitter, Facebook, blogs and apps, and is a way for master sommeliers to connect with each other in a way not possible when Huether first began her journey. “We have study groups online so sommeliers can reach each other and ask other master sommeliers questions,” she confirms.

Another shift in wine culture is in the demographics. Younger adults, specifically 19 to 30-year-olds, are the fastest growing wine consumers. That may be why shelves now display more wines with fun or playful names, colourful packaging and lower price points. In the U.S., 38 per cent of red wines purchased were in the $4 to $9.49 price range. While we don’t see those prices in Canada yet, palatable wines can still be purchased in the cheaper $15 range.

Angela Aiello, founder of Toronto’s iYellow Wine Club, also sees a new pattern amongst consumers, in terms of both wine consumption and  urchasing. “The trend now is definitely education,” she says. Aiello knows the ins and outs of wine culture and customer preferences, having grown up in Ontario’s wine country and worked for nearly a decade in renowned restaurants. Even wine retailers are doing their part to keep up with the higher expectations that consumers now demand, she says. Stop by any wine store and there is sure to be a sample to try before you buy. “Liquid to lips,” says Aiello, “is the idea of allowing customers to taste it, understand it, recognize it and hopefully love it.”

Homegrown biodynamic and organic wines are also becoming a welcomed trend. Ann Sperling, director of winemaking at Southbrook Vineyards, Canada’s first biodynamic winery, says it is young consumers and educated wine enthusiasts who are making a strong push. “They’re asking the questions about what goes into the wine from a whole global perspective, from the vineyard through to the bottle,” she says. “It gives organic and biodynamic producers an opportunity to distinguish themselves.”

About 72 per cent of wine in Canada was imported in 2009. Luckily for Canadian producers, consumption of domestic wines is projected to increase by 26 per cent between 2010 and 2014, meaning Canadians will consume around 14 million cases of locally produced wine. Currently, each Canadian consumes an average of 10.6 litres of wine annually.

Both Huether and Aiello say they like to eat and drink with the season, so during the incremental weather in autumn they’ll have both refreshing and full-bodied wines on hand. A rosé or a slightly chilled Gamay for a warm autumn evening and a more full-bodied cabernet sauvignon or France’s esteemed Bordeaux for the dark and dismal days. As for finding the perfect complement for your fall fare, Aiello suggests matching the weight of the food with the weight of the wine. “If you drink what you like and eat what you like, you’re going to like both.”

TANTALIZING TANNIN APPS
You don’t have to be a sommelier to make stellar decisions when it comes to choosing wine. These days, deciding on a decadent bottle is as easy as the touch of a button. In a world filled with apps, programmed connoisseurs are almost as good as having a live-in wine steward. Here are a few of our favourite wine apps:

WINE NOTES – Don’t you hate when you’ve enjoyed a bottle of red at dinner, only to forget what it was? Say goodbye to the frustration. The Wine Notes app allows you to easily take notes on your wine of choice. With templates divided into categories such as colour, vintage, region and more, remembering what you loved about that bottle has never been so easy. Of course, you can also take photos and share your notes via Twitter. Cost: Free

SNOOTH WINE PRO – This app is amazing for bottle detection. Say you spot a new bottle of wine, but don’t know much about it. Instead of relying on a store clerk for information, just scan the bottle with your phone and presto! Through image recognition, the app will pull up reader reviews, vinter information and allow you to search for similar wines by wine or region.
Cost: $4.99

HELLO VINO – For the beginner or expert wine lover, Hello Vino is a go-to. A virtual decision helper, this app pairs wine with your agenda. It can suggest a bottle of wine to go with your meal, the perfect bottle for that special occasion or even a fitting bottle to pair with a gift. It also helps sort through the plethora of wines to choose from by
providing tasting notes and ratings. Cost: Free